Esca Restaurant and Wine Bar

"Another week, another windmill, eh Sancho?"

"Yes, but this week we learned a lesson: sometimes a windmill can change its stripes."

We had dinner at Esca a couple of weeks after it opened and were not much pleased with the food, the service or the ambiance. But we knew that it takes some time and practice, no matter how well prepared the restaurateur, or how talented the chef, for a restaurant operation to get its feet under it and begin living up to its own standards. Our first reservation was a show of support for a new endeavor and we knew better than to be overly critical even though we had watched with eager anticipation for many moths prior to the opening of Esca Restaurant and Wine Bar. “Wine Bar” sounded very chic and very welcome!

Our obsessive-compulsive behaviors being what they are, however, we took notice of some glaring flaws on our first visit: poor service (what kind of restaurant/wine bar makes you wait twenty minutes for your initial champagne order, an order given as you sat down?), ordinary food (the lamb osso buco was swell, although accompanied by an eating lesson from the waiter who suggested “sucking out the marrow”, the salmon flatbread pizza unexpectedly thick, cold and lacking flavor), and the ambiance decidedly overbearing (recordings of Italian crooners a couple of decibels beyond high.). Where we craved peaceful elegance in our attractive booth, cadres of wait staff marched briskly up and down the clattering corridor, but did not serve us.

We went back for lunch a few weeks later. This time, seated inside in the window area (which brings up the question, “Will gourmands desire to sit outside on the corner of Route 66 and Main Street to eat and drink amidst the gas fumes and racket of that three lane intersection?”), Sancho's chair broke its leg when he sat down. Uninjured, we enjoyed a perfect accompaniment of fresh and dry rose’ with pannini and salads. There were continuing lapses with the service and unbearably loud music. (Perhaps on account of a great amount of tile, the sound level in general is pretty high.)

We waited six months before returning for dinner last week. Why? Well because we could tell that Esca was ambitious and committed to turning out something special. They were earnest, the wine list was deep and interesting, despite being over priced, and we had faith that they could get a handle on the service and, we were hungry for good food. We believed that by continuing to aim for perfection, Esca had a good chance to deliver a culinary thrill!

Meanwhile we read some criticism on the web and in the Middletown Eye. I have to say that some of these reviews were mean spirited to the point of viciousness. It appeared that Esca could do no right. Christmases were ruined. Office parties were nightmares. Graduations made people wish they had never gone to school. Inedible food served slowly. The music. You would think the reviews were written by the competition! And, although I am sure that some of them were, several trustworthy friends swore that they were never going back to Esca, for one of the reasons mentioned above.

This is when it helps to be ego-maniacal, pseudo-intellectual, self-proclaimed and self-serving restaurant critics – such dolts cannot take the word of friends or the masses at face value. The time to revisit Esca had arrived; time to see for ourselves if the anticipated great quality leap, now that the restaurant has had a chance to get into some sort of rhythm, had indeed occurred!

Esca is now “finding itself”. The meal we had last week was creative and innovative, complementing the rest of the menu, and delicious. Our waitress was so attentive, if not quite polished and professional, that we could forgive her some minor lapses. Dressed in black and whites, she kept our tablecloth free of crumbs, our wine and our water refreshed, and was eager to answer our questions even if she had to use her notes. For example, the Italian white wine we ordered, Falanghina from Feudi di San Gregorio (Campania), arrived with a more recent vintage than listed. Was it a better vintage? Kind of a trick question since we were happy with a younger, fresher example of this uncomplicated wine even before asking. But she handled the situation well and explained that the list was soon to be updated. The price of the monkfish special? (She didn’t know.) When we asked for another roll she said “yes” but it took another prompting ten minutes later to get one.

Nevertheless, on balance, it was a revivifying and positive change from the deadly standard service we have previously encountered on Main Street. Another positive, was the music. It was turned down low, thus allowing us our thoughts and our conversation. Inexplicably, at 9 PM, it went up two or three notches and caused us some dismay.

The best news is the food. The menu is trim and focused. There are numerous courses which use duck: duck confit as part of a salad or on a flatbread “pizza”, duck prosciutto, crispy duck confit ravioli with foie gras “foam” and an entree of crispy duck breast are offered. Australian lamb makes a few appearances, as does soppressata and prosciutto in various combinations. Esca cannot seem to make its mind up about how to identify its ingredients. It brands some items yet leaves other items disturbingly vague. We are informed, “Hereford Beef, 100% grass fed and humanely raised”, yet the olive oil is only referred to as “EVOO”. This means “Extra Virgin Olive Oil”, but it is such a bastardized category of oils that it has almost no meaning. More specific here would be better. Stemware is “Eisch”, (although my glass was not so labeled, Eisch is a brand unfamiliar to me as is the dubious concept of the “breathable” glass. However, it was a fine glass, of good quality, befitting a Wine Bar, and well-proportioned - comparable to the Austrian standard, Riedel). The Soppressata (Danielle) and the Calamari (Point Judith, R.I.) are also “branded”, but something specific should be said about their “aged balsamic vinegar”, or “Agrumato Oil”. My feeling is that if you are going to get into the name game in the first place, you might as well brand-name everything. And while I am being picky, they might as well correct the misprinted menu which recommends, "Consumers who are sensitive to food related reactions should not eat thoroughly cooked meats, poultry, and seafood.”

The appetizer “Foie Gras Brioche” is one of the best courses we have had in a long time. There are several additional menu items graced with this rich ingredient, but we have not yet sampled them. The foie gras at the center of the course is a potent, earthy, flavorful morsel surrounded by a soft egg with strips of duck prosciutto and green salad. All is topped with a yummy Hollandaise sauce. Paired with another outstanding appetizer, the “Pecorino, Prosciutto and Sangiovese Poached Pear”, with its fruity flavors augmented with toasted pine nuts, tangerine-agrumato oil, and balsamic vinegar, it was a complete meal for the hearty appetite of Sancho. The fun of sopping up the sauce with the warm rolls delivered as they came out of the oven was an incomparable hands-on, gustatory delight. It was hard to choose between the garlic, olive or parmesan rolls, all were very good.

The cool and crisp and playfully named “Fork and Knife” Caesar was good-not-great, with plump anchovies draped over the long stiff leaves of fresh Romaine lettuce, tempting the diner to eat without utensils. Purists will say that anchovies do not belong in a Caesar Salad but rather a coddled egg and Worcestershire sauce, but we enjoyed this more modern, innovative twist. It was a wee bit dry and could have used some fresh lemon juice. The Monkfish Special was outstanding. The monkfish, which had a firm lobster-like consistency, was delicious in a light broth surrounded by a few succulent mussels and scallops, and perfectly cooked red potatoes with actual potato flavor. Satisfying and soulful, it was just the antidote for a cold winter evening in Middletown. There was a full bowl but it was difficult to share, even as Sancho covetously eyed the rapidly diminishing portion from across the table.

To all those who had a less than outstanding experience at Esca Restaurant and Wine Bar, I would say give them another chance. The specials and the dishes are unique, such as the “Foie Gras Brioche”, and are worth the money. While prices are generally a bit high, I would rather have a special dining experience for a little more money than an inferior one at any price.

Bottom line:
Foie Gras Brioche: $20; Pecorino, Prosciutto, and Poached Pear $10; Knife and Fork Caesar $9; Monkfish Special Stew $25; Bottle of wine, $35.

Service: Pleasant and professional